Wednesday 16 May 2012

Anchor Trolley Set Up

Anchoring is one of the most dangerous things about kayak fishing. I will show you how I have set up my system and try to explain how to use it correctly. The picture below shows the bits needed for the anchor trolly.


Firstly, you cannot just drop anchor and tie it to any part of your kayak. This will drastically increase the chance of capsising and basically just put you in an uncomfortable position, therefore you use what is known as an anchor trolley. The way this is set up consists of two small bungees at either end of the kayak that act as a sort of shock absorber. These will then be connected to pullys in order for a rope to rotate from bow to stern.

The picture above (right) shows the lower line running through eyelets to keep everything 'tangle free' and tidy. The top of the line is left free running so the loop can be pulled to the bow or stern.
This loop will help guide your anchor line to the bow or stern to give a stable and safe anchor while preventing it twisting up with the anchor trolley. On the other picture above (left) is the cleat to secure the anchor line, this also provides a safety 'quick realease' function should you need it. I have seen a few incidences, one of which another kayaker was being dragged by his anchor rope by an ignorant boat user, and your life may be on the line so to speak.

Below (left) is a picture of the anchor set up, you can see the floating anchor line (10-15ft) going through the loop and onto a divers reel. This holds around 80m of line (around 200kg braking strain). A buoy is connected to this so when the floating line is released it is easy to retrieve. From this is around 1.5m of chain. This has two reasons, one is to sink the line to the bottom so the pull is sidewides on the anchor, helping it grip. The second is to prove a safety release. You can see a cable tie (below) that takes the strain of the anchor at the top of the anchor, this has a small cut in it to weaken it. If your anchor then gets snagged, a strong pull will snap it and revert the anchor, pulling it out backwards.
So this is how it is rigged, but how do you use it correctly? Well firstly BEFORE dropping anchor you must run the floating anchor line through the trolley and pull it to the bow or stern, however prefered. The reason for this is if the line pulls tight before this is done you put yourself in a dangerous situation as you will now be anchored from the side.
Once that is done you can now drop anchor, the standard recomendation is 3 times your depth. If you do not have a fishfinder then drawing lines on the anchor rope every 5 meters will help you judge it.
It is always good to practice in safer conditions if it is possible, so try flat and calm waters that are shallow, even if you can stand up, just to practice the routine.
I hope this helps and any suggestions or questions i'd be happy to help.

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